The Timeless Journey of Indian Jewellery

Exploring how centuries of tradition continue to shape modern jewellery.

Craft4 min readRathod Jewellery

A South Kundan choker and matching earrings displayed on a bust

Few traditions carry as much memory as Indian jewellery. For centuries, pieces were made for royal courts, passed between generations and worn at the moments that mattered most. Many of the techniques used then are still practised today, by hand, in workshops across the country.

Born in the royal courts

Kundan was a favourite in royal courts for centuries, prized for its delicate artistry, vibrant gemstones and intricate detail. Polki traces its origins to the Mughal era and remains deeply rooted in the royal traditions of Rajasthan, where every piece was crafted for nobility and cherished for generations.

A South Kundan long necklace with pearl strands and matching earrings on a bust
South Kundan — rubies, emeralds and pearls set in gold

A craft held in the hands

Kundan is still made using the Jadau closed-setting technique: gemstones are embedded in a gold framework with natural lac and secured with refined 24-karat gold foil — the Kundan itself. The reverse is fully enclosed and may be finished with Meenakari enamel. It is work that requires highly specialised, precise hands, and our Kundan pieces are crafted entirely by artisans, without machinery or CAD.

Every piece we create carries forward a legacy of craftsmanship, trust and excellence that has been nurtured for generations.

A family story within the larger one

Our own chapter began in 1968, in Kolhapur, with an atelier for handcrafted silver jewellery and silver artefacts. In 1982 the second generation expanded into oxidised silver, antique gold, Victorian and heritage-inspired designs. Today, across Kolhapur, Jaipur and Mumbai, we make Chakri, Polki, Kundan and diamond jewellery for leading retailers in India and beyond.

Tradition, reinterpreted

What changes is the silhouette, not the soul. Heritage techniques are being adapted into lighter, more contemporary forms — pieces with balanced proportions that can be worn through a long celebration, and designs shaped by what today's wearers are looking for. The artistry of the past, in other words, continues to set the standard for modern jewellery.

A Polki choker and matching earrings on plum silk
Polki — uncut diamonds set in their natural shape

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